Mary Rose

I finally got a hold of a copy of “Before the Mast: Life and Death Aboard the Mary Rose” through inter library loan.  It a veritable treasure trove of information on woodworking and tools from 1500’s England.  So many of the wooden tools survived due to amazing and somewhat miraculous circumstances.  Much of the iron is gone, but you can infer a lot from the markings and residue.

Amazing stuff, and very well documented.  Unfortunately I can’t keep the book, and copies go for hundreds of dollars.  Time to get busy with a copy machine I think, at least to grab the sections I am most interested in. There is a great dovetailed box that I might want to recreate.  They were most likely imports from the Continent, as dovetails weren’t the norm in England until later.

— badger

Medieval Bow Saw

I’ve been digging through this awesome book of trades I found on line.   It’s in German, so it’s hard to navigate through.  I found the link through the most awesome blog ever and have been trolling through it for days.  Lots of period tools and the like, often in use.

Check this awesome picture I found while looking around.  This picture is from 1589 and is essentially what I want to make, and what I want to do with it once I make it.  I also liked the clever stand for supporting the work, with the steps cut into it.

–badger

Bow Saw project started…

I went down to the garage last night try out the new dovetail saw, but got distracted and worked on the bow saw frame instead.

I’m starting with some random Oak I picked up from I have no idea where, but it’s stout and available, so it will do.  I’m not following any set plans for this, just kind of winging it which is probably a bad idea.  I’m using the blade I bough from Traditional Woodworker that is 24″ blade with a 9 TPI filed for cross cutting.  I have a 5 TPI rip blade as well, that I am thinking of making into a frame saw later.

I laid out the blade, and used my little one for the rough proportions to use.  I cut a couple of 4″ sections to use as the handles, and set to work on those.  The metal shank is 1/4″ bolt which am embedding in the handle.  I started with a #4 auger bit (1/4″) in my new/old brace I got a coupe weeks ago, and then drilled a #8 (1/2″) hold for the head.  I should have done it in reverse I think, since the bigger hole was slightly offset, which might have worked in my favor.

Small admission, I didn’t exclusively use hand tools for the drilling, I did start the hole with the drill press, but it wasn’t long enough.  The brace and auger set up does work well, better than I expected, but it still had some issues.  I’m still debating how far down the path I want to go and how fast.

Once I had the holes drilled, which was a small challenge using these in my non wood working vise (all I have for now) and at that height of my bench currently.  As I said the holes were not perfectly in line, which meant I could wedge the bolt down in the hole, and it was stuck fast.  the shank is not straight out of the handle though, so it might be a problem later.  We shall see.

Once I had enough shaft poking out of the end, I chucked it up in my lathe (60 year old Shopsmith 10-ER) drill head, and turned the handle round.  I didn’t try for anything fancy, this is one is going to be pretty rough I think since I’m not putting much thought into appearance.  I might make another frame later, depending on how this one goes.

Then I put the oak into my bench vise, and started hacking at it with the drawknife.  I use the word “hacking” deliberately, because again I wasn’t putting a lot of thought into this part.  Mostly I just wanted to see what it could do, and then just kept going.  Needs some sharpening but it did a fine job of removing stock as it was.  I have a decent handle going already, and I’ll layout a more coherant plan on my next visit to the shop.  I wish I had a spokeshave, or more to the point I wish the crappy Harbor Frieght spokeshave wasn’t so crappy.  I know, I know, you get what you pay for, and boy howdy I didn’t pay much for this one.  I didn’t have high expectations for these, and even then it didn’t work.  I might try sharpening again, or maybe just toss them.

More to come, this is stage one and I’ll try and be a little less cavalier with this project later.  Last night I think I just wanted to push wood around and sort of “meditate by moving” if that makes any sense, working with my hands is relaxing for me.  I am excited to see how this goes together, I did some practice cuts with just the blade it works well.  In a frame this could be a work horse.  I’ve had bad luck with saws and find them very frustrating usually, so I hope this works for me…

badger

Sharpening with Rob Cosman…

So yesterday I was able to take a class/seminar/sales pitch from Rob Cosman at my local Woodcraft store (other wise known as the place where Badger can spend money very easily).  The class was interesting, but I have some minor complaints about.  Don’t get me wrong I did learn a lot, and it was interesting, I just kind of expected a little more from it.

We did cover quite a bit, but unfortunately the emphasis was on the expensive, high quality systems that are out of reach for the average wood worker (like most of us in the class).  So I learned some really good things about sharpening from Rob, but I also learned a few thing in spite of Rob if that makes any sense.

For now I am going to continue trying the “Scary Sharp” system that I’ve gotten improved results out of already, with my meager setup.  But I did learn a lot about bevels and micro bevels that I want to put into practice.  I’m also sold on the idea of doing it by hand, with no jigs, that much I agree with him.  “Teach a man to fish” and all that.

There was a really nice older gentleman there in the class that I thought was very cool.  He’s a few months from retiring, and he’s going to get into making surf boards and move to the coast and surf and make surf boards.  How cool is that, he was really interesting and I hope when I hit retirement age I can be that cool. 🙂

The best part of the class though, was afterward, when I asked for a couple quick tips on dovetails.  He sort of grudgingly gave me a few pointers, and they were really helpful!  He does have is own line of saw, and that makes a difference.  “70/20/10” as he called it, 70% Tools, 20% Skill and 10% Practice which makes sense if your livelihood is to sell tools.   Heh.  I don’t begrudge him that though, and his dovetail saw is fantastic and worthy of a fair amount of tool lust.  However, they were very modern with plastic/resin type handles and progressive pitch.  Comfortable and effective, but for my tastes, too “new”.  I’m not sure why, but I am more attracted to “old” tools and methods.   I’m willing to work a little harder with the older tools I guess.  But the tips gave me made a lot sense, and I’m going to try them out this weekend along with some sharpening.

I did spend a little money though, and got a cheap Crown Tools “Gent’s Saw”, a quart of Tried and True brand boiled linseed oil recommended by Dan over at his blog, and $2 stick of some kind of Rosewood out of the bulk wood scrap bin out front.  I’m curious to try the Oil finish on my pegged box I made during the holidays.

I hope to get into the shop this weekend to try out the new toys, and to begin planning out my other purchase which arrived last night in the mail.

Not the bow/frame saw itself, but the blades.  I got the two thick 24″ blades pictured, not the turning blade, and I’m intending to build at least one frame for the cross cut, and maybe a rip style frame for the other one.  I have some oak lath that I’m going to use for this that I fished out of a bin a while ago.  This will be my first mortise and tenon joint (for the cross bar) so that should be a fun learning experience.

— Badger

My first dovetails…

One of the things you read about when reading about hand tool woodworking is Dovetails.  Over and over you see and hear about them, and it’s clear that it’s a basic skill of the hand tool set.  So I set out to try these things, to learn what I needed to learn as it were.  At some point you have to stop reading and start doing, so you can really and truly learn the skill.

Tonight I put it into practice, here are the pictures so you can bask in my learning and witness my mistakes.  I’m working in Pine board I had from a previous project.  I’m using a no name back saw that I found at a Goodwill store (talk about humble beginnings, eh?) to do the cutting.  I had a low end Japanese pull saw, but it’s teeth shattered off in some Purpleheart during my holiday present making.  The only other saw I have is a cheap mitre box saw that is nearly useless for cutting.  I’ve been researching saws like crazy, but for now I’ll work with what I have.

First attempt, doesn’t look so hot does it?  The layout, and sawing of the tails went ok, the chiseling out of the waste went ok, but I made a major mistake on cutting the pins.  I didn’t pay attention to which side of the line I was cutting.  I had marked the waste (after a close call) on the sides, but I didn’t mark the tops.

Second attempt, looks much better by far.  I marked ALL sides of the waste this time, and was a bit too conservative in my cuts which resulted in too much wood on the pins.  Which is better than not enough, because I chiseled it down to fit and got a much nicer fit this time.

Tools and Steps:

1. Mark all sides of the board end with marking gauge by the thickness of the board and then a little more.

2. Lay out pins, using a 1:6 dovetail with the Stanley bevel gauge.

3. Clamp up the board, and cut the tails, then cut the waste off the side with the back saw.

4. Lay tail board down on bench hook, and cut down into the waste with bench chisels, flip over repeat until you can pop out the waste.

5. Clean up inside of tails.

6. Mark the pin board (first time I did it with the saw in the kerf like Saint Roy, second time I use scratched it in after cutting the tails.)  Also use marking gauge here to mark all sides with the thickness of the board.

7. Cut down with the saw to the marked line.

8. Chisel out the waste again, and clean up the lines.

9.  Pare the tails to fit (on the second one, the first one fit loosely and was a giant mess.)

— Badger

A tool chest from 1866

I found a book online that lists out the tools required for working in a workshop:

The book is
Our Workshop: The Art of Carpentry and Joinery by George Routledge and Sons, 1866

Found online here:

The list looks like this:

  • Small hand saw*
  • Sash and Tenon Saw
  • Table and compass saw
  • Axe
  • Jack Plane (double iron)*
  • Smoothing Plane*
  • Spokeshave*
  • Cutting Gauge*
  • Marking Gauge
  • Firmer Chisels 1/4″, 1/2″, 3/4″, 1″ *
  • Mortise Chisels 1/4″, 1/2″, 5/8″
  • Three Gouges 1/2″, 3/4″, 1-1/4″
  • Gimlets and bradawls
  • Joiners Hammer
  • Mallet *
  • Screwdriver *
  • Brace (36 black bits) *
  • Pincers
  • Compasses
  • Square *
  • Bevil *
  • Rule *
  • Grindestone
  • Oil stone
  • Oil can
  • Gluepot *

I probably have about 1/3 to 1/2 of the list, I gotta get working!

— badger

Blogged with the Flock Browser

Recent toolbox scores…

During the holiday break my wife and I were able to get out a bit and do some antiquing, something I never thought would be fun but we quite enjoy. A large part of it for me however is shopping for tools to use in the shop. My recent flirtation with hand tool woodworking has blossomed into a pretty heavy romance, and I can safely say that we’re seeing a lot of each other now. One of the major struggles with this type of woodwork is that the tools are generally expensive, shoddily made, or no longer made at all. The best answer to all three is to find old tools that still have some life left in them, revive them and use them. The old tools are often very well made and can be found cheaply at times. The trick is finding them, and thus we hit the antique stores.

I have a number of other hand tools and what not I’ll post about later, but the recent scores from the holiday shopping are a nice block plane, a frame/bow saw, brace, and really fun folding ruler.

Stanley #60 1/2 Block plane
Found this in an antique store in Portland with very little wear in fantastic condition. Looks hardly used, and a quick sharpening and it was put to immediate use in the shop.

Stanley Boxwood Folding Rule
Bought at the same time as the block plane, this folding rule is a marvel of boxwood and brass hinges. It’s 2 foot rule that folds to 6 inches. The outside is pretty grubby but the inside is still relatively clean. One hinge is a bit dodgy and I need to see if I can fix it up a bit because it’s a pretty useful tool.

Brace
A while back I scored a full roll of auger bits of all sizes, and have been looking for a good usable brace to go along with them. I have this funky cheap knock off brace that had such amazingly warping that was not only useless but dangerous as well. Most braces I find are rusted, or broken but this one had some scrapes on the bit holder, but other wise solid.

Frame/Bow Saw with Turning Blade
Cruising through Second Use is always fun, but this time I found a tool as well as wood. It’s nearly brand new condition, no wear with a sharp blade. Marked with “Clay Sheffield England” on it, it’s a bit of a mystery. The string is all wrong, and already breaking but that can be replaced. The blade is sharp and usable. That and a plank of bamboo plywood and that was a good day of shopping.

More to come as I document my toolbox of hand tools.

— Badger

Woodworking Journey

So, I’ve decided to expand on the role this site plays in my woodworking. Badger Woodworks will grow to include all my woodworking rather than just the pen business. I’m hope to be able to offer other types of things. For the most part this means adding a blog to site, and cataloging my adventures in woodworking (more on that later in other posts.)

badger

Time Flies

So, I am in the middle of porting the site yet again!  Also, I’m noticing that the last few updates are years old.   I think I underestimated the time that my son would take up in terms of woodworking, and this business idea.

Also, my main job has been very time consuming as well and between that and raising a family, the Badger Woodworks as a business idea kind of had to take a back seat.

I’ve done a few comissions here and there, and have been getting some time to work on my wood working skills, but nothing for promoting the business.  That’s ok, it’s still there and something I want to pursue.  Lets look to the new year and see what that holds!

— badger

Two new styles

05/28/08

Two new styles


Posted by: badger

I’ve worked out two new styles of pens that I can offer. I’ve sourced the parts I need for Calligraphy pens, and they are a blast to make!  I also have found the best rollerball style pen I’ve seen yet.  The “Baron” style is a nice weight, comfortable size, and best of all looks amazing. I’ve been using my new pen at work, and it’s gotten lots of compliments already.  I’ll be working on a page soon to display all the style I have available.  Also, I figured out how to make a “Teachers Pen”, a double ended pen with black and red inks for grading papers.  You can see examples of these in the Gallery