Posts By Badger
Carved Tool Tote finished!
Tool Tote all loaded up
When I took the class out at Port Townsend on Planes, we all came away with a nice plank of air dried Alder wood that we had taken from rough stock to finished width over the course of the class. Tim, Jim and I were talking about how it might carve, and I set out to find out. Not content with simply carving a panel, I decided to make something useful out of the plank. And for the record, it carves beautifully!
I’ve been wanting to make a tool tote to carry tools to my sons preschool where I do work from time to time. Plus, I wanted to have something to take stuff to Port Townsend classes other than a cardboard box or something. Something with a little class that showed off some of my skills as a woodworker (or in the case of my dovetails, the lack of skills, but shhhh… on that.)
Looking around I found a nice “strap work” pattern in my inspiration folder, and started out with some pencil and paper to work out the layout. That took a bit of doing, but I finally got the basic lay out. I cannot stress enough how helpful it is to work on paper first for carving layouts, unless you’re a master carver like Peter Follansbee that is. If you’re working out a new layout that you’ve never done, it’s vital. If nothing else, you have to figure out what your layout lines are going to be. Once you get that, the rest is fairly easy, but it’s not always easy to tell what you need by looking at a finished piece. Sometimes you can see the faint leftovers of scratched lines for layout that will give you clues like the S scrolls I worked out before.
I did notice that after my first panel, the second panel layout flowed out quickly and without any fuss, so I can tel that practice and experience will quickly eliminate the need for the paper eventually. Until then, I plan on sketching a lot before I start.
Once I had the pattern worked out, and the guidelines established I was able to scale it down to my boards. This one came down to a simple rectangular grid, and layout was a snap because it was simple division of space not complicated measuring. For this one it was, set in a border with the marking gauge then divide the remaining space into half length and width, and then subdivide the spaces again. You can see in step 1 below what I ended up with.
Carving Progression from Layout to Finished
To set the pattern into the wood I took a variety of chisels, and matched the shapes to my sketches and set them straight down into the wood with a sharp rap of the carving mallet. Matching curves to chisels is the key here, and once you get it established it goes quickly. I got into a groove where I would hit one mark, and then repeat it down the line of the pattern.
Once I get the whole pattern set in (#2) I start in on the background with a couple of small slightly curved chisels to scoop out roughly the background. I’m not looking for super flat, just a good clean line around the pattern. I quickly realized I had to be ambidextrous quite a bit to make all the cuts safely, but after a bit of practice it soon became second nature. The biggest trick was making sure that I was cutting the right direction, and trying to accommodate the grain. I got pretty good at the first, and a little better about the second. You can see in #3 what it looked like about half way through.
Once I’m happy with the background I took my homemade texture punches, and worked the background. It really makes the flat strap work pop out then, once you texture the background. Also, this is why you don’t really need to have a perfect background for this, because the punch takes care of any minor bumps.
The Finished Panels
As for the rest of it, the ends are Oak, and the handle is a bit of Walnut scrap I found in the shop. I decided to give it some interest by shaping the handle sort of inspired by the Greene and Green or Craftsman styles. It was also partially an excuse to use my new Lee Valley spokeshaves to be honest, but I am pretty happy with the result. The shape of the ends didn’t turn out the way I was hoping, but it’s not too bad. I would do it differently if I did it again.
The whole thing was dovetailed together, and a the bottom is a bit of 1/2″ Oak left over from another project set into a rabbet on the bottom boards. The less said about the dovetailing the better, since I managed to botch it a couple of small times, and one major blunder I had to fix that almost ruined the whole piece. Simply put, I really need to pay attention to my marks to match the sides to the right end piece. Sigh.
I applied a simple spray coat of clear Shellac to finish it since I wanted something that was simple, easy and fast (it needs to be in service asap) and I could renew it if I needed to. It’s meant to be a functional piece, so I didn’t put a lot of effort into a glassy mirror smooth finish, which would be silly for a tool box anyway.
Finished Tool Tote - 3/4 view
Finished Tool Tote - side view
All in all I’m pleased with it, especially the way the carving came out.
Badger
How much does she love me?
This much apparently.
This much!
My wife found a little mini folding rule for Valentines day for me. I’m not sure how it happened but I think I am kind of collecting these things now. I’ve seen a few folding rules out there, but nothing this small. I have his 1′ folding cousin that I use in the shop all the time, so I think this one is pretty awesome. Not real useful, but awesome.
Badger
My woodworking heroes…
There as a post on the Popular Woodworking blog titled “Who are your woodworking heroes?“ The title gave me pause, because I could think of one quickly but then I was a little more stumped. I had LOTS of heroes, so many it was hard to pick, or worse remember their names because much of what inspires me is the object, not the maker in most cases. I narrowed it down by a criteria of who started me down this crazy journey of hand tool wood-working and making things. I also restricted this list to people alive today, the modern day heroes. I have a couple of historical ones, but I’ll keep it current day for now.
My Woodworking Heroes.
Roy Underhill – Sort of a “Gimme” for this list, but I really can’t say enough good things about this man. I was lucky enough to travel across the country to take a class at his school, and it’s still one of the all time best experiences I’ve had. He is an author, teacher, comedian and entertainer and is genuinely the guy he portrays on TV.   I’ve read all the books, and watched as many of the episodes of Woodwright’s Shop as I can.
Chris Schwarz – I sort of view Chris as the heir to the throne for what Roy has been teaching. He’s taken the cause to heart and is doing an amazing amount to promote and educate on the craft. I like the enthusiasm he shows for it, and the energy he puts into it. Writing books, starting a small press, and educating people. He’s gained a near cult of followers for his troubles, and I really enjoyed his “Anarchists Toolbox” book. One of his editorials in Popular Woodworking about what we could all do to “save woodworking” and said “start a blog!” so I did.
Kari Hultman – I found her blog through another linked blog, and ended up reading the entire thing over the course of a few days. She got me excited about making wooden things, but more importantly gave me the feeling that “Hey, I can do that…” She takes great clear progress shots, and explains just what you need to try it your self.
Peter Follansbee – In addition to woodworking, I have a passion for history. Peter helps combine both, and educates every one who reads his blog on both. It’s inspired me to dig deeper into what I want to do, and helped me learn relief carving quickly. He has a new book coming out, and I’m hoping he will write and write and write.
Wretched Coping Saw, Begone!
A tale of two coping saws...
I’ve been doing a little dovetailing lately, and that means I’m also doing a little bit with the coping saw to clear the waste. Every time I drag that plastic handled demon out of my tool box, I am reminded how much I despise this saw. It’s a struggle to use, it fights me constantly, and is simply a pain the butt to use.
I was reading through bits and pieces of the Anarchists Toolbox again, and came across his diatribe about his first coping saw that he used an example of a poor quality tool. I resolved then and there to do something about my coping saw issue, and set out to do some research into a replacement. I finally settled on the Olson Coping saw from Tools for Working Wood, although the Gramercy bow saw with coping saw blade was a serious close second. It came down to price really, and I sort of compromised by getting the Olson, as well as the blades and pins for building my own frame for the bow/turning saw at some future date.
I gave the Olson a little test run tonight, and it was worlds apart from the plastic handled demon that has vexed me so! I got the Skip Tooth 18 TPI blades on a recommendation and it was a good one. The frame is nice and solid, the handle feels good and the blade cut through walnut like something close to butter.  I’m looking forward to doing more dovetails now, and am glad to be giving my old coping saw the boot.
badger
Oak Furniture The British Tradition Reprinted? Yes!
Oak Furniture | The British Tradition – Victor Chinnery – 9781851490134 – Antique Collectors Club US.
Looks like one of the most sought after books on English Oak Furniture is going to finally get a second printing. This book is the GO TO source for this stuff, and it’s really hard to find used. We’re talking hundreds usually for this book.
A reprint is on it’s way according to the publisher’s site, which is fantastic news for us recreating these old styles or just studying them for new ideas.
Looks like it’s coming out some time in March. Just in time for my birthday…
** edited ** Peter let me know that they apparently have a regular printing schedule as soon as they run out, they print more. So, it remains to be seen whether it’s a full on second edition, or more of the same book printed again. Either way, I’ll be happy because I’m going to get a copy.
Badger
Carving in Alder
Hope everyone had a great holiday season, and is looking forward to a grand year of hand tool woodworking! I am through the marathon that is my family’s Christmas and Birthday (3) bonanza, and putting my mind towards some woodworking again.
While I was at the Hand Plane Essentials class in Port Townsend we worked in some local Alder wood supplied for the class by the instructors. We were each given a rough sawn plank to work to a finished board through a series of planing techniques. We then took our plank home proudly to show our spouses what we had spent all that money on. :) I also grabbed a couple scraps for testing on carving since it felt like it might be a decent carving wood.
My plank will be come the sides of a toolbox tote I am building, but I did spend a little holiday time testing out the carving tools on the Alder.
Things I learned about Alder wood:
- You need sharp tools (duh).
- It chips out fairly easily.
- It carves really easily.
Test Carving in Alder wood
I discovered pretty quickly that my larger V tool was a little dull. You can see how it crushed the wood fibers, rather than cutting. I pulled out my quite sharp smaller V tool for a similar test and it cut nicely and cleanly. I then did a little gouge work (lower edge) and some low relief work with punched background like I am hoping to do on my toolbox.
I think the test results were encouraging enough to proceed with the carving, although I’m a little nervous about the V tool work. I’m considering a layout that is heavy on the low relief method, and keeping it simple. We’ll see.
Right now I have the sides smoothed, rabbeted on the bottom edge, and sized perfectly. I have a scrap of hardware store 1/2″ thick Oak that will work as the bottom, and I’m probably going to use some Oak for the ends. For the handle I’m thinking of using a little bit of Walnut. Most everything will be carved just so I can get more practice in a variety of woods, and to decorate my toolbox marking it uniquely as mine.
More to come including some thoughts on how to sharpen a V tool.
Badger
Oilstone Sharpening Level Up!
My Oilstone Sharpening Setup...
Last weekend at the Hand Plane Essentials class that I took from Port Townsend School of Woodworking, we covered sharpening extensively. they devoted half of the second day to the subject. Unfortunately for me they focused on waterstone sharpening to the exclusion of all other methods, except some on the topic of “sand paper on glass”. This was fine though, because Jim’s system of waterstone sharpening was fast and efficient. I was impressed, but I had previously decided to go Oilstone, and had purchased a number of stones already.
I really didn’t want to switch gears mid stream…
Plus, on the advice of Mr. Schwarz I am going to commit to the Oilstones for a while, and see if I can make it work. If you skip around from system to system you’re essentially wasting time and money. I had purchased a set of India stones Coarse, Medium and Fine. I used some of my bonus money to purchase a high quality stone from Tools for Working Wood.   They just recently started offering a 3″ wide Hard Translucent Arkansas stone in a 1/2″ size at a reason able price. I got the stone in the mail today, and it is a fantastic stone! I was blown away by the quality of this stone. I quickly ran down to the shop (with my three year old in tow, since we were hanging out today) to try it out. I set up the kid with a hammer and some nails and set him loose on some scrap lumber.
I took a Stanley #3 plane I had picked up recently, and gave it a quick whirl using the same techniques that I’d learned at Port Townsend last weekend. With in a very short amount of time, I had a sharp blade and was taking shavings of decent quality. I wasn’t really trying for wispy thin shavings or anything, I just wanted to put a decent edge on it for testing out the new stones. I am very stoked to have finally gotten a sharpening system that I think will show results as I build my skills. My attempts on previous stones that I’d picked up were depressing, but now I know it has to do with the quality of the stones I was using. I’d gotten them at a tool show, with no idea of what I was buying. They’ll be good for knife sharpening I’m sure, but not for plane blades. They are too thin (2″ wide stones) for plane blades anyway.
My Oilstone Sharpening/Honing Method
1x Hard Translucent Arkansas Stone
3 in 1 machine oil
The system I learned at the class was really simple.
1. Establish a bevel at 25 degrees
2. Hone a micro bevel at 30 degrees
It really was that simple. The #3 blade was dished in the middle, and it was pretty dull. In the class we used a grinder and the Lee Valley tool rest (which I have on order) to establish the bevel. On one of my blades we put an 8″ radius for a fore plane blade, but the other was straight across. At home I used the medium India stone to re-work the bevel. The coarseness of the India stone worked pretty well, and I went at it free hand for my first test run. I laid the blade down so the existing bevel was flat, and rocked back and forth keeping the bevel flat against the stone. Soon enough, probably 10-20 strokes the bevel was pretty good, although I think I need to spend a little more time on this blade. I wiped the oil from the stone, and moved to the Hard Translucent Arkansas stone. Adding oil to the stone, I found the bevel, and lifted my hands up an inch or so, and began to rock back and forth again for about 10 strokes. I got a decent micro bevel in that short time, and I hit the burr on the back side with the back flat on the stone, raised by a thin metal ruler (the ruler trick).
Since this was just a test, I popped it into the plane, and ran a few passes over a board advancing the blade a little at a time. Right away I got some good shavings coming off the wood. Next time I go down, I’ll spend a little time setting the plane up, and sharpening some more to practice, but I was pleasantly surprised how quickly I got a decent edge from these two stones. I have some green stropping compound to add to a leather piece I am going to glue to a board for the final polish step.
One thing I want to put into practice was something that I was discussing with Tim Lawson at the class in PT. He talked about honing (strop, or high grit stone) just before and right after you work with a blade will make it so that you will have to sharpen very infrequently because the blade never really gets dull. I’m not sure how that will work in practice, but it makes great sense for my carving tools. I want to set up a sharpening station in my shop, so I can just take the lids off the stones, hone, and go back to work.
I’m not one of those guys who will be obsessing over sharpening, I just want to work the wood with sharp tools, and I think this system (with my new stone) will be just what I need.
Ding! Level up! (Gratuitous video game reference!)
Badger
By Hand and By Eye
 
I just registered for the class linked above, which I heard about at the Hand Plane Essentials class I took this weekend from Jim Tolpin. It was a great class, and I am really looking forward to this design class.
“Design and Construction Strategies for Hand Tool Woodworkers
This class is based on the research that Jim Tolpin is doing for his forthcoming book with George Walker on the design and layout techniques used in the 17-18th centuries.
These traditional techniques use basic (and simple) geometric techniques to create designs for well proportioned furniture. The notion of well proportioned is ingrained in the human eye and is rooted in the different elements of the piece of furniture having whole number proportions (like 1:3 or 3:5).Â
These proportioned dimensions are easy to create using a sector and dividers. A sector is a simple tool made of two sticks hinged together (you’ll make one in class).
You can, in fact, create a whole design with out needing to reduce the dimensions to feet and inches (or millimetres)! This can be liberating for the hand tool woodworker – it can help you escape the tyranny of the machine or getting overwhelmed trying to use a drawing program on your computer.
Jim also looks at how your design and layout of joinery should be slaved to your tools. Making simple decisions during this stage can greatly simplify the process of dimensioning the stock and cutting the joinery.“
We were discussing this on Sunday as the class was winding down, about the difference between the engineer perspective and the artisan perspective. I made a comment that I really liked. “Measuring is so imprecise!“  It really is, when you are talking about woodworking, you spend a lot of time get a measurement dead one, and the saw drifts a tiny bit, and you’re short. That is if, you’re cutting all the pieces in one go. If you cut one piece, and then fit it to the next, and then base the next off that, etc. you will be guaranteed to have it fitting right. This is how the artisans who built all the furniture we love to emulate, and are inspired by. At best they had a two fold rule, no digital calipers, or table saws. I am super excited about this class and the book that follows the research they did coming out at Lost Art Press.
Badger
The #4 vs #4 1/2 Smooth Plane Dilemma
Lie-Nielsen Toolworks USA | No. 4 versus Lie-Nielsen Toolworks USA | No. 4 1/2
I got a little bonus at work, and I wanted to drop some on a new plane from LN. Now I can’t decide which #4 version to get…
I have the Low Angle Jack from them already, and a #4 Stanley Type 19 that I’ve tuned up a little.
Any advice? I love the look of the Brass body #4… but if I can only get one plane…
Help?
Training a young apprentice
Learning to Hammer right
It’s been a really brutal month at work, and I haven’t had ANY time to get into the garage. However, the Thanksgiving holiday is upon us, and I finally have a little time off. While at the local Harbor Freight store picking up some extra dividers, and a set of number stamps I saw a Kids Tool kit for like $15 and had to have it. The only really useful thing in the kit was a small hammer, but the hat goggles, and suspenders were fun for him to play with.
This lead me to something I’d been thinking about for a while, how to do teach my kiddo how to work the wood, and when to start. I’ve decided to start now, even though he’s not even four yet. I’m going to start by teaching him a tool at a time, like a true apprentice. The first project will be a small tool tote in Pine for him. I’ll do the cutting and stuff, but he is going to do the nailing part. And he’ll get a hammer to put into it. After that we can work on sawing, and other tasks.
Badger